One of the first regions of China outside the major cities to open up to international tourism was Yunnan province in the south west of the country. The successful World Horticultural Expo held in the capital city Kunming in 1999 attracted visitors from all round the world who then ventured to other attractions such as the towns like Lijiang and Dali and also the amazing Shilin Stone Forest.
In the last few years the tourist authorities have been improving the infrastructure of roads, hotels etc in other parts of the province to provide a better level of comfort and ease of movement for the influx of tourists seeking new experiences in this fascinating region of China
As you might expect for a region that hosted the horticultural expo Yunnan is famous for many types of flowers and plants . The land of Yunnan ranges from mountains up to 6700m to tropical lands only 70m above sea level and there are numerous valleys with distinct climates. Many flowers now common around the world originated from Yunnan which is particularly famous for flowers including camellias, azaleas, magnolia, primrose, lilies and orchids The region is a major source for the cut flower trade in China.
The major cash crop of Yunnan is tobacco and it is very noticeable that the vast majority of men smoke heavily (very few women do). In the main streets of the city are rows of attractive large lanterns strung from poles and it was disheartening to find that these were used for tobacco advertising.
Kunming now has a population of over 6 million and is a pleasant, well laid out city with many gardens and lakes. China is taking to golf with enthusiasm and courses are being built in the city; the Lakeview Country Club course was designed by Nick Faldo. However the sport is very much for the burgeoning middle class.
Perhaps the most famous attraction in Yunnan is the Shilin Stone Forest about 50 miles to the east of Kunming. To get there the road leads through agricultural land with corn, chillies and peppers drying on racks, on roof tops and under eaves. Roast duck grilled in pine needles is a local specialty; at lunch ducks are hung outside cafes waiting for customers.
The limestone formations at Shilin are incredible, up to 45m high. Paths wander through the formations and groups from the local Sani tribe dressed in traditional costume dance and sing for the visitors.
colorfully attired Sani tribespeople at Shilin Stone Forest
At Luxi south of Shilin the Alu caves are a popular attraction, three main caves joined by easy walking paths, and the tour includes a boat ride among the formations. These have ‘exotic’ names such as ‘King Wei deploys his troops’ and ‘woman longs for her husband’.
Further on the town of Mile is famous for its hot springs. The grounds of the excellent Huquan Hotel in Mile contain large pools fed by the hot springs and a soak in the pools is most relaxing and therapeutic. Although wine has been produced in China for centuries, it is now becoming a flourishing industry and the Yunnan Red Wine facility outside Mile is producing a range of red wines from four different grape varieties including Pinot Noir and Syrah.
Another city that is rapidly developing as a major tourist centre is Jianshui. The history of the city dates back 1200 years but it is now transforming rapidly into a dynamic Chinese city. The Eastern Gate of the city is similar in design to the gateway at Tiananmen Square in Beijing but is 25 years older. The small park surrounding the gate and the top level of the gate were full of older citizens talking, playing mahjong and cards, singing or just relaxing – like a local senior citizen’s club!
A long pedestrian mall lined with trendy shops (the Chinese are really into designer labels) joins the Western Gate (with other ornate gates along the way) nearby which are some old wells containing fresh spring water. Women were ‘bucketing’ the water out into large water carriers that then sell the spring water to local residents. We also inspected a small factory making bean curd sweets – the ultimate in handmade ‘piece’ work.
local courier at Jianshui with a tray load of steaming fresh tofu
Jianshui contains some lovely gardens including the Zhu Family Garden that dates from the 1890s. Established by two brothers it contains 42 courtyards, numerous archways, masses of bonsai and a huge pool full of koi. You can even stay in the ornate traditional rooms. Another good choice for accommodation is Linan Hotel.
Another garden contains the second oldest Confucian Temple in China as well as a huge pond full of lotus flowers, bridges statues, doors and carved panels. The workmanship on all these artefacts is incredibly detailed.
Ancient Rice Terraces at Yuanyang
Rice is the staple food of China and for centuries the Chinese have utilised any suitable land to grow the crop. For over a thousand years the farmers in southeast Yunnan province have developed huge terraced fields on the steep terrain that seems to literally climb up the sides of mountains.
One of the most famous areas is round the town of Yuanyang south of Jianshui that perches on top of a large mountain reached by a very winding road about 30km up from the valley floor. In the valley the temperature can reach 40 degrees Celsius in summer and the region produces many tropical fruits like bananas, pineapple and mangoes. However as you climb to Yuanyang the temperature falls, it is often misty and foggy – the town is referred to as ‘Paradise floating in the Sky’.
The terraces rise like giant steps following the contours of the hillsides; the sides of each water-filled terrace is beautifully ‘carved’ and the mud packed solid. From above the terraces form delightful patterns for the viewer. There is only one crop per year in Yunnan. Fish breed in the water of the terraces between crops.
I visited after the crop had been harvested and remedial work was being carried by the farmers wading waist deep in the water while water buffalo pulled the tilling equipment clearing the terraces of ‘weed’. The method would not have changed over the thousand years apart from metal cutting tools on the wooden plough. It looked hard and tiring work.
Yuanyang is a quaint town its narrow streets hiding a myriad of tiny shops. The locals dress in traditional costume and the women carry goods in panniers made from palm fibre on their backs. In a couple of places I saw women carrying loads of bricks in their panniers to construction sites; apparently being able to carry heavy loads gives added ‘status’ to a woman
There are other traditional villages near Yuanyang. Meong Pin is a small village of 300 families noted for its embroidery I watched the schoolchildren skipping and playing in the school yard – it could have been any elementary school.
The lifestyle at the Hani people village of Qing Kou has hardly changed for centuries and there are moves for it to be World heritage listed as a means of preserving their unique architecture, dress and way of life.
The rice terraces of Yuanyang are unique, a testament to the innovation and industry of the local farmers.
Yunnan is a fascinating and exciting part of China to visit offering diverse attractions, colourful ethnic groups, amazing scenery and terrific food.
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