Tales of Old Lijiang

From its source in the Tibetan snowfields, the Yangtze meanders for more than 6300 km through the central heartlands of China before flowing into the East China Sea just north of Shanghai.

For most of its journey the longest of all rivers in one of the world’s biggest countries is a docile ribbon of brown.

While the mighty waterway passes fields and farmlands and sprints past valley walls now and again only once does it wildly rage and uncontrollably churn as its progress to the sea is temporarily restricted by the narrowest of all gorges.

I reached the awesome Tiger Leaping Gorge after a two hour drive from Lijiang, an ancient trading town of Yunnan Province in southwest China, followed by a gentle 3 km stroll on a well constructed walkway.

The scenic reward was well worth the physical effort because after passing through the final pedestrian tunnel I was confronted by the full fury of the massive river surging between sheer cliff faces just 25 metres apart.

The noise was deafening and the experience exhilarating as I stood gazing skyward in an unsuccessful attempt to see the peaks of cloud covered mountains.

It’s 3900 metres from turbulent waters to snow-capped summits, a dizzying distance that has propelled this scenically splendid place into the record books as one of the deepest gorges in the world.

Lijiang a

Lijiang


The name, I learned, is said to have been derived from a legendary event when a tiger jumped across the narrowest point of the river to avoid a hunter.

Tigers are seen no more.  They have been replaced by tourists venturing out for a few hours from the quaint architecture and distinct cultural attractions of Lijiang.

Dating back more than 800 years, the 2200 metre high city was a significant trading post along the ‘old tea horse road’.

Today there are two ‘faces’ to Lijiang.  The modern one of wide streets and sleek buildings is the slick and shiny face visitors see after a drive through the charming countryside from the airport.

But a panorama of high rise hotels and contemporary boutiques isn’t the reason visitors make a 50 minute flight from Yunnan’s provincial capital of Kunming to Lijiang.

Instead visitors in increasing numbers are lured by the old ‘face’ of Lijiang, one of the most famous ancient cultural cities in China and one of the newer entries on the World Heritage List.

Visitors are fascinated by the rickety wooden dwellings they can photograph, the cobbled streets they can wander, the finely crafted souvenirs made by the local Naxi ethnic people they can buy and the nightly concerts of traditional Naxi instruments they can enjoy.

The Ancient City of Lijiang, also known as Dayan Town, is time capsule without a rival anywhere else in China.

Lijiang b

Lijiang

Without the slightest hint of jetlag visitors are taken back to the economically prosperous Song Dynasty as they walk historic lanes, pass venerable buildings and cross bridges in another centre that contends for the title, Venice of the East.

Casually strolling past one old house I stopped, peered inside and said “ni hao” to a group of old women seemingly hypnotised by a game that looked much like majong.  Gold teeth sparkled as they broke into laughter, waving in response to my greeting.

I continued down the well swept lane paved with dark stones of many hues.  Not one was out of place and not one scrap of rubbish was to be seen.  And the snow fed waters of the canal that rushed through the middle of the lane were clear and free of debris.

In wood framed doorways a few old men squatted on tiny stools smoking long pipes.  Under branches of leafy willows some aged women sat knitting while others proudly held their grandchildren.

A variety of accommodation and a host of other facilities have been developed to cater to visitors.  With an eye on their budget but with a view on emerging themselves in local life some visitors choose to live with families for a week or two.

More upmarket is the concrete and glass tower of the Guanfang Hotel.  One advantage of staying here is the view guests have, in one direction, over the nearby ancient city and, in the other, the majesty of the 5500 metre high Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Its eternally snow capped mantle, a mere 30 km north of Lijiang, can be seen up close and personal during a 3 km long cable car ride which transports visitors through a variety of climatic zones in just 20 minutes.

At the base of the mountain there are numerous trees that look like they were just planted.  But looks are deceiving, I learned.  Growing in a climate where the summer is short and cool and in soil that is less than ideal the forest I saw was actually 80 years old.

At the top and on a sunny but still cold day the dusted peaks – there are 13 in the range with ice valleys in between – appear as if they had come straight out of a delicate Chinese brush painting.

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