The Great Wall of China is regarded as one of the wonders of the world. Equally amazing is the Grand Canal that stretches nearly 1800km from Beijing to Hangzhou.
The Grand Canal was built during three distinct eras, around 500BC and during the 7th and 14th centuries AD – a monumental feat. The canal is still a vitally important transport route and large numbers of barges and open decked boats laden with goods ply in both directions.
Situated on the Grand Canal or on ‘tributaries’ leading off it are a number of lovely cities and towns where the canals form an integral part of the daily life of the citizens. Close to the Chinese financial capital of Shanghai are a number of places worth seeking out such as Suzhou and Hangzhou or the smaller towns of Wuzhen, Tong Li and Zhouzhuang. There is a Chinese saying “in Heaven there is paradise, on earth Suzhou and Hangzhou” and these towns really live up to expectations.
Suzhou, one of China’s oldest cities and only 85km from Shanghai, derives its fame and wealth from the production of silk and you can visit the factories where it is produced. The deftness of the women getting the thread from the cocoons or stretching the fibres to make the filling for a quilt is amazing. Another traditional craft in Suzhou is embroidery with the unique double-sided embroidery a special art; some of the commissioned works take up to a year complete.
Suzhou is a city of gardens and four of them are in the World Heritage List. They have very evocative names; the Master of (Fishermen’s) Nets Garden, the Humble Administrator’s Garden, the Surging Wave Pavilion and the Lingering Garden.
The Master of Nets Garden is quite small, an exquisite residential garden with the gardens and pavilions built around a central pond. In the evenings a local cultural show is held in the different pavilions featuring opera, drama, singing and the playing of traditional instruments.
My favourite is the Humble Administrator’s Garden which, to belie the humble tag, is extensive with superb use of water, rocks and buildings (small pavilions and pagodas) to accentuate the simple lines and the openness in the use of the space.
Humble Administrators Garden, Suzhou
The local markets always intrigue me and wandering along the narrow city alleys I found wonderful displays of fresh produce, bags of spices, tiny hardware shops and even shops devoted to selling lollies
Further on from Suzhou is Hangzhou, one of China’s seven ancient capitals, famous for its embroidery, brocades and tea. Surrounded by hills, the centre of the bustling city is dominated by the large freshwater West Lake, a popular recreation area for cruises and visits to temples and pavilions with exotic names like Six Harmonies Pagoda and Temple of the Soul’s Retreat. The number of people praying and burning incense sticks at temples, especially Lingyin Temple, one of China’s famous Buddhist shrines, was surprising.
Lingyin Temple, Hangzhou
The hillsides around Hangzhou are famous for the production of tea, especially green tea. The same families have been involved in the cultivation and production of tea for many generations and you can visit the ‘factory’ for a tea ceremony.
Smaller in size but equally attractive are the many ‘water’ towns in the region of which the best known is probably Zhouzhoung. . Its ancient old town centre is wonderfully preserved, the houses (many dating back to the 14th century) backing onto the canals that bisect it. Fourteen bridges cross the canals and these are built in all shapes and sizes. The most famous is the Double (or Key) Bridge built between 1513 and 1619. Two bridges are at right angles to each other, one with a square opening and the other a round one, creating the effect of a key. Cruising languidly down the narrow canal lined by ancient stone walls, on a punt propelled like a gondola I could imagine I was in Venice.
Canal scene, Zhouzhuang
Narrow pathways line the canals and you can see women washing clothes and vegetables in the water, buy souvenirs of local arts and crafts (paintings of canal scenes are very popular as are strings of water pearls), admire the colourful bunting and huge lanterns or stop for a delicious meal at one of the many restaurants
The ornately carved doorways facing the paths along the canals conceal surprisingly large houses. The House of Shen, built in 1742 for a rich silk and rice merchant, has seven courtyards, five archways and over 100 rooms. The intricate carvings of animals and other characters are a tribute to the wonderful craftsmanship of the time.
Another lovely water town is Tong Li, sometimes referred to as the ‘Venice of the East’ although this accolade could equally apply to other towns. There are three bridges close together at one point (a total of 49 bridges in all in the town) that are often used as part of local wedding ceremonies as to cross them is reputed to bring good luck, longevity and prosperity.
A highlight of Tong Li is the superb Tiusi Garden. Approached through a tiny entrance gate and a couple of small gardens, the feature is a lovely garden built around a large pond with pavilions, rocks, trees and flowers, all reflected in the calm water. It is full of delightful angles for the photographer and very restful after the hustle and bustle outside.
Much closer to Shanghai is Wuzhen where the old town has been only recently opened to the public (the Chinese authorities are concerned at the ‘commercialisation’ of the other water towns). There are tiny alleyways where traditional crafts are still practised, narrow canals busy with craft, the tiled roofs of the houses sit at crazy angles, and one notices the friendly faces of the inhabitants who are still getting used to being peered at by visitors.
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