Cruising down the Nine-Bend Stream on a traditional bamboo raft, safely ensconced in comfortable bamboo chairs while two polers steer the craft in the placidly flowing river, is the perfect way to admire the wonderful mountain scenery prevalent in the Mount Wuyi Scenic Area the south-eastern Chinese province of Fujian.
The Chinese have a special reverence for mountains and you will find large numbers of locals visiting areas where mountain scenery is spectacular enjoying the fresh air and scenery and partaking of various activities. In fact the day I ‘rafted’ down the Nine-Bend Stream (sometimes called the Nine Twist Stream) our boat was one of about 200 similar craft, the rest full of Chinese tourists who were all intrigued by the westerners on our boat and wanted to know where we were from. Lots of photos were taken of these strangers in their midst and everyone wanted to shake our hand. The trip takes about 1 ½-2 hours and is a must for all visitors to the area.
The Mount Wuyi area in the north-western part of Fujian bordering Jiangxi province was declared a world natural and cultural heritage place by UNESCO in 1999.
It is the most outstanding area for biodiversity conservation in southeast China its sub-tropical forests home to many ancient plant species many endemic to China as well as reptile, amphibian and insect species. There are many bamboo groves containing about a third of all Chinese bamboo species. The wide variety of flora proved an invaluable source of plants for European botanists who came to collect the exotic material during the 19th century . Birds also thrive here, some 300 species being found in this wildlife paradise. The region is also a stopping place for many migratory birds.
The region has a long history and has been popular with visitors from the 2nd century. Many poets, painters and scholars have been attracted to the area and they have left inscriptions carved into the stone beside the Nine Bend Stream. Temples and monasteries, many now in ruins, reflect the spread of neo-Confucianism since the 11th century.
The Mount Wuyi Scenic Area (sometimes referred to as Wuyi Mountain) has many attractions for the visitor. There are 36 peaks with the principal ones being Panliu, Dawang, Yunu, Tianyu and Jiesun; most are around 600m high. There are also many caves in the steep sandstone cliffs, the most famous being the Water Curtain Cave.
The Nine-Bend Stream (part of the river in Chinese Jiuqu Xi) winds for about 9km through some magnificent mountain scenery, odd shaped peaks appearing at every turn. At times the raft trip is through narrow gorges where the waters quicken into bubbling rapids while at other places the river is calm and languid. The juxtaposition of the waters, steep cliffs, dramatic peaks and mountain greenery produce the effect of a traditional Chinese landscape painting.
preparing to set off on rafting trip down Nine Bend Stream
Near the second bend is Jade Maiden Peak, the smooth sheer cliff suggesting skin and the grassy top suggesting hair.. After half way along the stream and visible from the third, fifth and sixth twists is Heavenly Tour Peak which is in fact three huge rocks.
Small temples and pagodas cling precariously to the edge of steep cliffs. At a couple of places you can spot where the unique hanging boat coffins used to be placed in long ago times, around 3000 years ago, in large crevices high up in the steep cliffs, a practice unique to this part of China. Made of cedar the coffins are up to 5m long. And contained a single body shrouded in silk and hemp. How they got there remains a mystery. At the end of the rafting tour don’t miss the excellent local museum which contains examples and explanation of these amazing relics.
For a different perspective of the scenery it is worthwhile tackling a couple of the walks to viewpoints high above the river. Steep steps lead to pagodas and viewing points. The best view is from the top of Heavenly Tour Peak (a mere 800 plus steps) from which the whole panorama of the region is exposed. The rafters in their red lifejackets provide a colourful focus against the green of the river and hills and from the top of the climbs look very small.
The climbs can be quite enervating yet I was surprised to see many elderly Chinese clambering up the paths seemingly unaffected by the strenuous terrain. Many of the Chinese travel in groups evidenced by the fact that all members of a group wear the same baseball style cap. Take plenty of water and stop regularly to take in the views (or just to get your breath back).
The Chinese often give very colourful and evocative names to scenic spots. Mount Wuyi area offers Eagle’s Beak Rock, Ever-Happy Temple, Nine-Dragon Nest, Peach Blossom Cave and Twin Breast Peaks (our guide called it Madonna) among others.
Also where the raft tours end is Wuyi Palace, formerly a temple built to offer sacrifices to Lord Wuyi, and which now houses the administration office in charge of affairs associated with the mountain. Started in the Tang Dynasty in the 8th century it expanded to include over 300 halls, some still intact. Set in pleasant grounds it is typical Chinese Taoist temple architecture with colorful eaves..
Tea is a major product of the area as it has been for hundreds of years. Wuyi Big Red Rock Tea is regarded as the first among the top ten famous teas in China. Popular with visitors is the pleasant stroll along a valley to a place called Dahongpao where six bushes over 350 years old are the ‘originals’ from which all tea bushes (producing oolong tea) in the region are descended. The spot is revered by the Chinese.
The main city of the area is Wuyishan which lies about 15km from the main tourist attractions of the Mount Wuyi Scenic Area. Originally called Chong’an its name was changed in 1990; its population is over 200,000 and the airport for the region is nearby. Daily flights to Wuyishan are available from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiamen. Wuyishan is the only city of tea culture in China.
The Chinese authorities have catered for the rapidly increasing number of visitors by building a ‘separate’ tourist town (sometimes referred to as National Tourist resort District) close to Wuyishan and numerous hotels have been constructed to meet the needs of the visitors. Restaurants and cafes can be found in the town which, when I visited, was still a ‘work in progress’ with the construction of new villas, pavements and tree plantings being undertaken by busy groups of workers.
In addition to tea the area is also noted for its timber production and the tourist village is dominated by shops offering tea tasting ceremonies (hopefully leading to purchase of ‘over-priced’ tea) and places containing enormous, and often grotesque, wood carvings. How some of these huge carvings are transported to purchasers in China defies belief and one wonders how they fit into the usually small apartments of the Chinese people. Another popular item prized by visitors is rather strange looking fungi no doubt used for cooking or medicinal purposes.
The shopping area was busy at all hours of the day and night, the local tourists stocking up on canisters of tea and many other local arts and crafts being purchased as souvenirs..
The Yeohwa Resort and Spa Hotel on the edge of the tourist village development is highly recommended, stylish, and well-run, with excellent facilities including both Chinese and western restaurants. Don’t miss the Chinese banquets, an array of exotic dishes all produced with skill and flair. The rooms are spacious and well appointed and the staff friendly, courteous and helpful. The grounds are attractively laid out with quiet, landscaped courtyards, numerous fountains and a large sculptured feature wall with two huge elephant sculptures on the top. Dawang, one of the noted peaks of the area provides a dramatic backdrop to the hotel.
In Wuyishan hotels such as the Wuyi Mountain Villas and Ramada are recommended.
4km south of Wuyishan resort town is the small village of Xiamei where a small group of Shanxxi people continue to live a traditional lifestyle. Old ladies deftly sort out the tea leaves on large bamboo platters, others carefully rake the rice drying on concrete ‘pads’, animated groups play cards or mahjong, women knit (on four needles) while chatting in doorways, old men sit contemplating life while nearby young men play pool.
old women sort tea leaves, Xaimei village
Most of the small village is laid out along two sides of a narrow stream. Washing hangs from rods, women and children go about their daily business, and small temples, some nearly hidden by the surrounding structures, still operate as they have for centuries. Temples including the lovely Zou Family Temple feature intricate carvings in brick, stone and wood with themes of historical figures, folklore and legends.
Tiny shops are tucked away inside houses and some of these sell artefacts, knives, vases, pots, paintings etc, some supposedly up to 200 years old. To the uninitiated it is hard to tell. whether they are genuine or fake.
It is a colourful reminder of a lifestyle only now starting to change.
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