For over 400 years, before becoming part of China again in 1999, the tiny Portuguese enclave of Macau on the southern coast of China provided a small measure of ‘European’ influence in an oriental setting.
Founded in 1557 during the great era of Portuguese exploration it enjoyed boom economic times, served as a base for the introduction of Christianity to China and Japan and as a summer residence for the great traders (’taipans’) of Canton.
Nowadays it is a pleasant, relaxing place to spend a few days absorbing the mix of Portuguese and Chinese influences (Macanese), indulge in some great cuisine and wine and perhaps have a flutter at the burgeoning number of casinos that are the financial lifeblood of Macau. Most western tourists come to Macau as a side trip from Hong Kong while there are huge and increasing numbers of visitors from ‘mainland’ China.
The city of Macau is built on a peninsula connected by bridge and causeway to the islands of Taipa and Coloane. The total area of the Macau Special Administrative Region is about 29 sq km but the rapid land reclamation program is expected to markedly increase its size within twenty years.
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The best way to ’see’ Macau is a combination of coach tour and walking. The city area contains numerous narrow streets and alleyways linking a number of historic sights. In recognition of its unique Portuguese and Chinese heritage the city was declared a World Heritage Site in 2005, listing over 30 historic sites. Some of the narrow streets are used for the Macau Grand Prix held each November.
The most famous sight in Macau is the ruins of St Paul’s Church (after a fire in 1835 only the facade remains) at the top of 68 steps rising from the alleyways near Senado Square; the focal point of the centre of the city. The ruins are adjacent to the Mount Fortress that now contains the excellent Museum of Macau, full of fascinating exhibits.
St Paul’s Church, Macau
Macau is surprisingly hilly and you get excellent views over the harbour, the Pearl River and across to mainland China from a number of vantage points. The old lighthouse and chapel (elaborate frescoes on the walls) at Guia Fortress provide the best view and are symbols of Macau’s maritime, military and missionary past.
The name Macau is derived from that of a Chinese goddess known as A-Ma. The word A-Ma-Gao meaning Bay of A-Ma became shortened to Macau. On the waterfront facing the inner harbour is the Temple of A-Ma that was extensively rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1988 that miraculously left the statue of A-Ma blackened but otherwise unscathed. Adjacent to the temple the Maritime Museum has many interesting exhibits of Portuguese and Chinese maritime links.
A-Ma Temple, Macau
Casinos and death defying leaps
Macau is in the middle of a huge building boom and one of the recent additions is the 338m high Macau Tower. For those with strong stomachs and no fear you can either walk round the outside of the tower at the 233m level or for the biggest adrenalin rush jump from the same height in a ‘controlled descent’. I passed on both these options.
For over two hundred years Macau has had casinos – it is the only place with legal casinos in China – and the current number of 22 casinos is due to increase sharply in the coming years with new ventures such as Wynn, MGM and Galaxy coming on stream together with some Australian ventures like Crown Macau. I visited the large Sands Casino late on a Monday night and was amazed at the number of patrons packing the tables. Casinos operate for 24 hours a day in Macau.
Great food and wine
The mixture of Chinese and Portuguese influences (’Macanese’) is reflected in the magnificent cuisine featuring giant king prawns, shrimp, crab and many other fish cooked using interesting spices, curries and coconut. Unlike Hong Kong where wine is fearfully expensive, in Macau you can try excellent Portuguese wines at reasonable prices.
The major hotels and casinos all have restaurants but the choice is vast. For superb Portuguese food I would recommend trying more local places such as O Manel on Taipa or Restaurante Espaco Lisboa on Coloane. For Macanese food try Restaurante Litoral in Macau city.
Macau offers a wide range of accommodation. At the top end of the market are the Hyatt Regency on Taipa, the Westin Resort on Coloane, and the Mandarin Oriental, Landmark and Hotel Lisboa in Macau. The exclusive Pousada de Sao Tiago is a favourite for the rich and famous.
Fact file
Most western visitors to Macau arrive as a side trip from Hong Kong.
From Hong Kong a TurboJet or catamaran takes only 1 hour. It departs from Shun Tak Centre, Hong Kong Island or the China Ferry Terminal, Kowloon.
Turbojet Seaexpress jetfoil service direct from Hong Kong’s Chek Lap Kok airport to Macau takes 45minutes and customs, immigration etc is completed in Macau. For more information visit www.turbojetseaexpress.com.hk
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