In the 1980s western spy satellites circling the earth sent back images from a mountainous area of eastern China that showed buildings that were interpreted as the possible location of Chinese missile launching bases.
Agents posing as tourists were sent to investigate and rather embarrassingly discovered that the buildings, large earth structures, both round and square, were the homes of the Hakka people. Some of these buildings date from over 700 years ago but many were of more recent construction.
In the past few years the Chinese authorities have completed the construction of a sealed road into the Hudong Mountains making it easier for tourists to see the buildings and the fascinating lifestyle of the tribespeople.
From the port city of Xiamen it is now a three, rather than 8-hour trip initially through rich farming land (bananas, mushrooms, rice, orchids) with finally about an hour on a winding mountain road . The journey initially crosses the long Hiacang suspension bridge from Xiamen to a new industrial area of the same name where huge industrial developments are taking place – they seem to build the plants first and then invite the tenants in.
Approaching the Hakka villages the road winds through rugged mountain territory, the hillsides covered with lush tea plantations.
From a viewpoint above you look down on what are known as tolou, unique rammed earth buildings, of Zhencheng Lou village of the Hakka tribe. This village contains four round and one square building.
Within each of these structures extended families live. Up to 200 rooms in buildings ranging from 3 to 5 storeys with dining and kitchen facilities on the ground floor, warehouses on the second and bedrooms and guest rooms on the higher floors, and an ancestral area in the central courtyard for holding ceremonies and celebrations. Outside each building and on low walls fruit, corn and rice were drying on large mats.
One old lady proudly showed me her small bedroom on the top floor of one of the buildings, a room with her private possessions and a wonderful view over the surrounding countryside.
Close to Zhencheng Lou village are other similar villages. One on a small stream had only one of the large round buildings but along the side of the stream members of different generations were relaxing discussing the day’s events, tea was drying laid out on the pavement and men fished in the waters of the stream. A peaceful scene that I am sure had not changed over many years.
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