According to the gods of the Naxi people I am going to be lucky.
The Naxi are one of the twenty six (of a total of fifty six) ethnic nationalities in China who live in the large south western province of Yunnan bordering Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam (in area it is as big as Italy) and they believe that if you can see their sacred Jade Dragon Snow Mountain when you first approach it then you will be lucky.
It had been raining and overcast as our plane flew into the nearby town of Lijiang but as our bus approached the range across the stony plain the clouds lifted and the sun glinted from the snow covered peaks. It was a magical moment.
It was even more exhilarating when I took the new cable car which rises from the valley to a height of over 4500m providing stunning views of the peaks and the surrounding countryside. Rising so quickly from the base at 3000m leaves you rather breathless and care has to be taken moving round at the top. Jade Dragon Stone Mountain itself is 5596m and surprisingly has never been conquered.
The town of Lijiang lies in a fertile basin surrounded by mountains, over 500km north west of the capital Kunming, a long bus ride or a short 40 minute flight.. It is a neat and clean town, a mix of old and new as many buildings were destroyed in a severe earthquake in 1996. Next to the excellent Guanfang Hotel where I stayed was an enclave of traditional houses where life seems unchanging; corn drying on the roofs or on large wooden frames, the womenfolk washing in a small stream, even groups of women knitting as they discussed the day’s events.
The Dayan Old Town area of Lijiang dates back for more than 800 years and has been UNESCO heritage listed. The houses which line the cobbled streets radiating from the main square have earthen walls reinforced with wood frames and tile roofs. Small rivulets criss-cross the area. Old ladies sew intricate patterns on material, the old men (some still wearing Mao suits) contemplate a new way of life, tiny pagodas peep above the roofline. Trade is brisk in the market in the square most conducted by Naxi women in traditional dress.
Flowers are everywhere especially in the Old Town and in Jade Fountain Park with its lovely pagodas and white bridges reflected in the clear central pool. The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain provides a dramatic backdrop on a clear day.
In the days of rapid modernisation it was interesting to come across workers still using traditional methods. A group of carpenters were laboriously cutting and planing huge beams on a building site – one young lad was proudly and deftly helping his father in this task. On a nearby street rice and other dishes were being prepared in large clay pots; as with other areas of China the food is a highlight – and very inexpensive.
At Yufeng Lamasery just outside Lijiang is a special camellia tree, reputed to be over 500 years old and the first of its kind in the world. Between February and May it produces over 20,000 flowers, the largest measuring 23cm in diameter.
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