Since ancient times Mt Huangshan in China’s southern Anhui Province has been called the “No. 1 Mountain under Heaven”.
Famed for twisted pines, grotesque rock formations, a cloud ‘sea’, crystal-clear hot springs and the snow and ice scenery of winter, these attributes – considered “the five sublimes of Huangshan Mountain” – have long been creative influences for painters and poets.
Two misconceptions about China’s must-see mountain were immediately dispelled as my sleek cable car capsule reached the summit and I stepped onto the mystical mountain: it’s not yellow nor is there a lone peak.
The name came from an imperial decree in 747 AD when Mount Yi – Black Mountain – was rechristened Mt Huangshan to honour Huang Di, a legendary Chinese ruler known as the Yellow Emperor.
As for being a solitary summit, some 72 named peaks each soar higher than the next. Lotus Peak is the loftiest at 1864 metres with Bright Summit Peak and Celestial Capital Peak rounding out the top three.
Mt Huangshan – actually a mountain range extending over 1200 sq. km – was formed around 100 million years ago when an ancient sea disappeared and the land rose.
The hunk of Mesozoic granite was later shaped and smoothed by glacial action. Over eons, fissures and fractures appeared on exposed surfaces.
A highly robust plant found such harsh places to be ideal locations to propagate. The Huangshan pine is indigenous to the mountain.
Huangshan MT
Thousands of pines are more than a century old with one gnarled veteran I photographed having celebrated an estimated 1200 summers!
While another veteran, Black Tiger Pine is also revered for its age, it has added interest.
Though the tree is just 7.5 metres high its broad crown spreads out to somewhat remind you of a tiger. An odder characteristic is that this pine when viewed from certain angles roughly resembles the Chinese character for tiger.
Mt Huangshan is a veritable botanical garden with more than 1450 recorded varieties of plants including endemic pines and Chinese hemlock.
As well, the mountain is home to more than 550 types of mammals including Tibetan Macaques. I saw plenty of pines but no primates while venturing along some of the 50 km of footpaths that link peaks with canyons.
An estimated 60,000 stone steps have been carved into the mountain with many pathways and staircases said to be over 1500 years old.
Scholars of old walked these stones when they came to admire enchanting mountain landscapes, create paintings or make pilgrimages to sacred sites.
Considered one of five holy mountains in China, Buddhism was introduced around 420 AD with 100 temples subsequently built on its pine-padded slopes.
In all, there are more than 200 surviving temples, pavilions, pagodas, passageways, stone sculptures and ancient bridges.
I stopped at one old stone bridge where thousands of rusting padlocks had been affixed to its iron railings. This practice, I learned, is still observed by newlyweds who pledge their eternal allegiance to each other on the spiritual mountain.
Even from a distance, the grandeur of Yellow Mountain is awe inspiring. Those living within view of the mountain are indeed fortunate, I thought, retracing the cable car journey down a cloud-shrouded slope and proceeding to an ancient hamlet at the foot of range in the Huīzhōu region of southern Anhui.
Described as “a unique, cow-shaped ancient village”, Hongcun is actually more like a water buffalo lying on its side surrounded by green hills and blue water.
South Lake
Houses comprise the body. Nearby Leigang Hill is the head while two tall trees are the horns. South Lake just beyond the cluster of houses is the ‘stomach’ while waterways spread out like ‘intestines’.
Narrow alleyways crisscross the village and I walked over well worn flagstones while passing some of the 140 buildings remaining from the 14th to 19th centuries.
Distinct architecture typical of Huīzhōu culture was highly visible. On the outside, homes have white washed walls and black tile roofs many with horse head gables. On the inside most homes are furnished with carved wood panels.
There are several attention-getters in Hongcun like the circa 1855 Chengzhi Hall. Detailed with carvings and praised as the “Royal Palace outside of the Forbidden City” it’s open to visitors unlike most of the other old homes which are still private residences.
Many home owners have opted to become entrepreneurs. I saw residences where artisans were toiling at doorstep workshops to carve bamboo and horn into jewellery.
World Heritage Listed Hongcun has been widely praised over the centuries as “a village in Chinese paintings”.
This adulation continues in ‘oil’ because on fair weather days artists take up positions under trees lining the bank of the bow shaped South Lake.
With brushes in hand I watched them create realistic likenesses of the quaint stone bridge, the idyllic lake and the historic houses of Hongcun.
As I discovered these lures are only a small part of a truly special place that has been officially gazetted as “One of the Ten Most Charming Towns in China”.
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