Delights of Dalian and Surprises of Shenyang

Beijing hasn’t always been the capital of China as a few other select centres have also held the exalted post.  For a short but glorious period in the 17th century, for instance, the power of the Middle Kingdom emanated from Shenyang.

Located northeast of Beijing, Shenyang – the capital of Liaoning Province – has origins dating back two millennia.  However, it didn’t emerge as a city until the 11th century when it began to prosper as a trading centre for nomads.

Among the powerful nomadic tribes in the northwest of China were the Manchus.  They began to flex political muscle against the ruling Ming dynasty in the early 1600s.

In 1625, the founder of the Manchu State, Nurhachi after earlier seizing power from the Ming emperor, moved his capital to Shenyang, then known as Mukden.  His first decree was to build an official residence that would rival the palace in Beijing’s Forbidden City.

Today visitors can wander through Shenyang’s still intact royal complex gazing at a collection of some 100 buildings built nearly 400 years ago.

The majority of tourists having previously seen the massive palace complex in Beijing will be able to easily compare the two regal residences.

The most noticeable difference I discovered on a sunny summer afternoon is the lack of crowds and the diminutive size of Shenyang’s ‘Forbidden City’.

Dalian a

Shenyang's Forbidden City

Though Shenyang is well placed on the tourism circuit and has many comfortable hotels there are far fewer visitors trodding the cobblestone paths in its royal compound.  And they don’t have such great distances to walk as this palace is about one-tenth the size of the better known one in Beijing.

Even after the founding of the Qing Dynasty  – which lasted until 1911 when the last emperor was overthrown – and the shift of the capital back to Beijing in 1644 the Shenyang Palace served as the second seat of power in the empire.

Ongoing restoration and renovation has ensured that the predominately Manchurian architecture survives the cold winters and hot summers of Shenyang.

The century’s old palace enclave in the heart of Shenyang contrasts markedly with the modern commercial city that surrounds it.

Shenyang is not the only major metropolis in the province; Dalian is equally as important but for different reasons.

For more than 5000 years the tip of a picturesque peninsula near Dalian, a key industrial centre and a major port of northern China has been known by area residents as “Golden Pebble Beach” because of its oddly shaped stones and strangely coloured rocks.

In 1988, “Jin Shi Tan”, as the place is called in Chinese, was gazetted by the State’s Council of the People’s Republic of China as a “First Grade National Scenic Spot”.

Dalian b

Jin Shi Tan

Four years later its sweeping expanses of dense forest, clean sand and clear water and uncommon landscape were approved by the State Council as a “National Tourism Resort”.

Work began immediately to develop select recreational facilities and create what’s now considered to be “the most attractive holiday resort in northern China”.

Within the overall recreational facility is a living cultural village where many ethnic groups of China proudly display ancient traditions.  As well there are areas for hiking, skiing, sailing and golf, the latter being played at the international standard Golden Pebble Beach Golf Club.

The beach that interrupts the 13th fairway is the namesake for the course.  The golden coloured pebbles found here are estimated to be 600 million years old.

Far younger are the tall and leggy models who regularly strut their stuff on the cat walks of the city’s fashion houses.

One of Dalian’s many tags is “City of Fashion” as the hilly port city has gained a global reputation in the international rag trade.  This continues to grow each year following the success of the Dalian International Fashion Festival.

During this week long exhibition, fashion shows, entertainment performances and special sightseeing tours are organised.

One place in Dalian where a sightseeing tour is not needed is in its centrally located Zhong Shan Square.  The epicentre of this city is unlike any other in China because it’s ringed by buildings built by the Russians and Japanese.

Both countries occupied the strategically placed city at various times.  They left legacies in stone and brick that act as backdrops to a daily parade passing through the square.

On Sunday afternoons there are English and Japanese ‘corners’ in the square where locals come to practice language skills.

Zhong Shan Square is also a hive of activity every weekday.  Activity is most intense during the early morning and late evening.

As early as 5 AM on summer mornings the beautifully landscaped and hill back-dropped square is filled with young and old alike engaged in Tai Chi exercises.

As well it’s quite common and quite acceptable to see stylish single women dancing together.  In addition to watching their step no doubt these working ladies discuss fashion trends as they fox trot well into another night in the ‘Paris of China’.

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