The small brightly lit booth is adorned with Chinese calligraphy and signs of the stars. The ‘Master’ sits at his table deep in concentration while a young couple wait anxiously. Softly stroking the long strands of his wispy beard he tells their ‘fortune’ perhaps good prospects or whether their decision to buy a house is a good one.
The Master is one of many fortune-tellers operating in the busy night markets of Hong Kong, a scene replicated in numerous temples. There are many different kinds of fortune telling – tarot cards, palmistry, reading of facial muscles. You can even have a parrot predict your future!
The bustling night markets are symptomatic of life in Hong Kong, a scene of incredible activity and energy as the seven million inhabitants plus a vast number of tourists go about their busy lives.
I think everyone must have an inbred ‘shopping’ gene as the myriad of outlets from huge, glitzy malls to the smallest hole in the wall shop are always packed and sales are brisk.
For the tourist a word of caution. Hong Kong is no longer the cheap shopping destination it once was and for items like cameras and computer equipment there are some persuasive salespeople who can easily bamboozle the unwary buyer.
When they are not shopping everyone seems to be eating and the range of offerings is vast from high-class restaurants in the top hotels to roadside stalls where the locals grab a snack before dashing off for more shopping.
Among all the bustle there are areas of relative tranquillity. In the bird market in Yuen Po Street in Kowloon aficionados maintain the tradition of keeping small caged birds and wander amongst the stands of cages looking for a bird with superior singing qualities. Retired men meet here to discuss the affairs of the day while indulging this passion.
Around the corner in Flower Market Road boxes of flowers are being unloaded from trucks – most of the flowers come from mainland China where labour costs are lower.
Nearby the Goldfish Market is getting underway, brightly hued goldfish swim round in large tanks and small plastic bags are being filled with individual fish for the passing customers.
Hong Kong has a wide array of attractions for tourists apart from shopping and eating.
Hong Kong Island is varied from the busy business area round Central to quieter ‘villages’ like Repulse Bay and Stanley. No visit to Hong Kong would be complete without going to the top of Victoria Peak and the ride on the Peak Tram is a must. On a clear day the panorama from the top is breathtaking (both day and night) – unfortunately there are many days when the peak is shrouded in cloud so don’t delay if the weather is clear. The markets at Stanley are worth a visit while Repulse Bay and Aberdeen are more traditional areas while the Ocean Park theme park offers rides, dolphin shows, and a huge aquarium.
Down near the water a ride on the old double-decker trams that run from Wanchai to North Point is a great way to view the hectic pace of the city. It is terrific value as is the Star Ferry crossing from the island to Kowloon for the same price. From the ferry the staggering skyline of Hong Kong is clearly visible, the skyscrapers in a variety of styles all blending together. Another option for viewing the city from the water is a short cruise on the old Chinese fishing junk ‘Duk Ling’.
There are many other fascinating activities ranging from traditional Chinese tea ceremonies, learning about Chinese medicine, horseracing at Shatin and Happy Valley and some excellent museums and cultural events..
There are around 260 islands in the Hong Kong territory, many uninhabited. Ferries ply to some of these including lovely Cheung Chau and Lamma and these are recommended for a leisurely day away from the city.
The large island of Lantau is becoming a popular place to visit with Disneyland there complete with all your favourite rides. Disneyland is close to the stunning ‘new’ international airport.
On the top of the highest peak in the middle of Lantau is Po Lin monastery set amongst lovely green mountain scenery. Thousands of Chinese make the ‘pilgrimage’ to the monastery and especially the Giant Buddha, the world’s tallest outdoor seated bronze Buddha (it looks old but was only completed in 1993). Pleasant walking trails including the Wisdom Path add to the enjoyment. The restaurants at the monastery serve excellent vegetarian food.
Hong Kong has always been renowned for the high standard of accommodation although the rates can be expensive. The Peninsula Hotel has for many years been regarded as one of the top hotels in Asia if not the world (its afternoon tea is legendary) but there are many others that set very high standards.
Amongst the newer hotels is the Four Seasons Hotel close to the ferry terminals at Central on Hong Kong Island. I had the opportunity to stay there recently and the standard throughout the hotel from rooms (pillows to die for) to restaurants, excellent but unobtrusive service and panoramic views across to Kowloon would be hard to match. Its two main restaurants, the French cuisine Caprice and the Chinese Lung Keen Hing are recognised as among the best in Asia.
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